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Friday, 14 August 2026

The Shakespeare scholar Mary Cowden Clarke writes to her friend Helen Tagart from Nice 1850

 


The writer of this letter Mary Cowden Clarke born Novello (1809-1898)was connected to several overlapping circles of literary and musical figures in the Victorian period, including notably Charles Dickens, but was also an author  in her own right and in collaboration with her husband, Charles Cowden Clarke, who was business partner of her brother Alfred Novello in a very well-known music-publishing business. She published a significant Shakespeare Concordance in 1846 and in the year this letter was written published The Girlhood of Shakespeare’s Heroines




The recipient of this letter, Helen Tagart, was the daughter of Helen Martineau and Edward Tagart, the latter a prominent Unitarian minister and considerable scholar (Linnean Society, Geological Society, Society of Antiquaries). In the 1840s Charles Dickens attended his London services.

The style of this letter is self-consciously literary – adjectives, allusions and alliteration. The content provides the explanation of why the Cowden Clarkes relocated permanently to Nice and later Genoa. Nice as Nizza was part of the Italian Kingdom of Savoy until 1860 when it was ceded to France.

Transcription

Addressed to: A Mademoisellle Mademoiselle Tagart       Poste Restante      Genève En Suisse   redirected to       Hampstead prés Londres

Datelined: Casa Salvi   Nizza   Sep. 8. 1850

Postmarked NICE 9 SEPT   London PAID mark 29 OC 1850

My dear Helen

A letter from Lake Leman’s shores & from you, was indeed a delight. Many thanks for giving me so great a pleasure. I was rejoiced to find you had had so charming a time. It must have been surprisingly pleasant, because I know you set out with brilliant anticipations which it seems even more than fulfilled. The “next week” you speak of promises no anti-climax; to be circling round that grand old snow-head, for several successive days, with the freedom of a ..... [?] & the intelligence of a human being, is a glorious privilege. I’m glad to think it is yours.

We also have prospered in our journey. We reached Paris that same night. It is something to be able to breakfast in the bed at Craven Hill & the next on the Boulevard des Italiens. We speeded on so well, that we reached Aix on the Monday night! But here was out first check. No places to be had on to Nice; & we had the satisfaction of loitering about, idling away a whole day, lounging  by fountain brinks [?], eating an occasional ice, finding out the deepest shade to sit in - & like truly lazy people giving profound and lengthened attention to the subject of dinner and at night having been in bed about one hour & a half we were aroused by the agreeable accident of a [letter torn here] the police who came at the extremely eligible hour of ½ past eleven to inspect our passports! Whether it was that our roving about for the whole day in sight of the whole town without any ostensible object but to obtain shade, rest, & a cool draught of water, seemed to them a suspicious circumstance or us it is impossible to say. Alfred was extremely explicit, told them his name, his pre-name, his father’s height, his grandfather’s birthday, his great-grandfather’s dinner-hour, with every other particular that cd. be important they shd. know about us. 

We found my dear Mother & all our dear ones well & happy to see us. The little Italians are charming children, & made friends with their English relations immediately; knowing them all intimately already, by name. We have enjoyed our days intensely hitherto with all the delight that quiet pleasures possess for us who are just on the borders of the land where the “yellow leaf” flourishes, yet with enough of the “salt of youth” left in us, to give zeal & keenness to our relish of happiness. We bathe in the blue depths of the “Mediterranean flotes” [?] or rather, on its safe shelvy shore. You can hardly believe the difference there is between such sea-bathing as this & the shivery, chilly, gasping plunge into Brighton or Worthing waves. Here the water is almost tepid warmed thro’ & thro’ with the glorious sun & basking beneath the soft Italian air.  After a bathe such as this, we come in with a hearty relish for our breakfast, where a propition of grapes, peaches, laughter & talk form the agreeable adjuncts to the substantials. Charles reads aloud to the working party during the forenoon; & in the evening Clara [ Clara Novello, her younger sister and a leading European concert soprano from the 1830s; she married Count Gigliucci in 1843] either brings the tears into our eyes with her glorious voice, or makes us shriek with laughter by her ludicrous exaggerations & descriptions in story telling [ letter damaged here] sometimes drily follows up some [?] of her histories with: - Fortunately, they all know you, Clara !! [ In 1843 she was detained by the authorities in Rome during a dispute; her jailer Count Gigliucci fell in love with her and they married a few months later].

Gigliucci speaks English with much more fluency now, than when first I met him, wh greatly adds to the pleasure of his society – since now we can all join in conversation together. Do you know that sometimes now, while revelling in the delicious warmth of this atmosphere – the greatest exertion we can achieve being to loll upon a sofa in a muslin wrapper eating figs – I can scarcely bring myself to believe how a fortnight ago I was shivering in a silk gown & endless petticoats, & actually stealing to the kitchen fire that I might enjoy a good toasting through & through!  It wants some courage to exchange the one climate for the other; & I already find myself wincing when I look forward to the necessity for encountering the wintry North on our return. I look up now from my paper, & behold a blue expanse of sea & sky – nothing between the window-frame & Corsica – all glittering & sparkling in the rich noontide sun & air; & then I think of the damp clinging fog that will embrace us the most ungenial welcome that will hang about us on the instant of our reaching home & will hold us in its grasp for many many months to come; I own I feel anything but attracted towards my Native Land – and have a “soul so dead” as I shudder at its bare thought.

Sabilla [Sabilla Novello, a younger sister of the writer] bids me give you her best love, & to say she was much disappointed not to see you at Nice, as she had hoped for the winter. My mother also, & all the family party here who know you, desire me to add their best remembrances to your father & mother [ Reverend Edward Tagart and Helen], your sister & yourself. We were much amused with the account of your indignation & disappointment at the performances at Fribourg. However, the Bach treat on the Berne organ must have compensated. We were greatly entertained by your letter, dear Helen; & again I thank you heartily for giving me such a pleasure. It was doubly kind of you, in the midst of such hurried travelling & so much actual enjoyment, wh makes writing a task unless to one whose [letter damaged here] & be sharing with us our present pleasure, & to take the next best means of having them with us in spirit. I feel tho [?] I am writing incoherently, but if you knew the divers conversations that are going on around me you wd hardly wonder. Here’s little Mario tugging at my knee with an infinitude of questions to “la Zia Victoria” [ Aunt Victoria, the child using Mary’s middle name] there’s Giovanni chattering & Zio Carlo – there’s Alf [Alfred Novello] & the Count talking politics. Clara & Cecilia consulting about a pattern – Sabilla &  my Mother confabulating – the whole family a Babel that makes my head less “in a concatenation accordingly” than cd be wished. But you will forgive the incoherency of the writer for the sake of the pleasure she is enjoying in the midst of so many beloved voices & faces. In accordance with your suggestion, I shall post this letter to Geneva, where I hope you may receive it in safety. We shall set out from here about the 23d of January, as we must be in England by the 5th of next month. There is one consolation in returning. There will be two Copperfields!!! [Dickens’ book was published in serial instalments 1849-50]

With kindest regards to your fellow-travellers & with best wishes for your & their continuanace in your prosperous journey & safe return. I am

Dearest Helen   Your affectionate friend    Mary Cowden Clarke

 


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