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Sunday, 5 July 2026

Hugh Baird writes home to Scotland from Rio de Janeiro 1828

 

…. when I sat down to my Desk I never imagined I would have got so far on, one subject drove hard after another, and we often find that there is no way in which one’s mind can be better known than by the good quill….

 

In the 1820s Brazil’s Portuguese elite declared the colony’s independence. Great Britain recognised this new Brazil in exchange for a very favourable low-tariff trade deal to which was added exemption for British residents from local jurisdiction. As a result, Brazil rapidly became Britain’s third largest export market after the USA and Germany with textiles dominating the trade. British commercial houses in Rio de Janeiro, organising both importation and distribution, sustained an expatriate population which grew rapidly to around 3 000 people, including the writer of this letter. The close relations between Brazil and Britain may explain how in 1843 Brazil became just the second country to introduce the use of   postage stamps. France delayed until 1849.

Brazil’s export economy at this time was based on coffee and sugar produced on slave plantations and that slavery continued for nearly four centuries until abolished in 1888 though I read that slavery in Brazil often took what for short might be called  a milder form than in the Caribbean. British merchants handled these exports. Despite Britain’s post-1807 commitment to suppressing the transatlantic slave trade, regardless of the countries involved, Brazil continued to import slaves at scale; between 1780 and 1831 at a Rio de Janeiro wharf known as the Cais de Valongo some 800 000 slaves were brought ashore. In the first half of the nineteenth century, numerous artists including the French painter Jean-Baptiste Debret and the German Johann Moritz Rugendas produced depictions of slavery in Brazil including the arrivals at the Cais de Valongo. Their work was reproduced in quite widely distributed contemporary prints and is now all over the internet.   

But there are no plantations or slaves in Hugh Baird’s letter. A young man writing home from Rio to his stepmother in Scotland is quite likely to concentrate on reassuring topics and pass over in silence other matters. It is not that he had any censorship to fear: he handed the letter to Captain Kelso, the Scottish master of the John Lee about to sail from Rio, who three months later handed it in to the local post office at Cowes on the Isle of Wight, his first port of call in Britain.

Hugh Baird cannot quite escape the style of a business letter but his opening reference to “esteemed favors” is surely meant as a parody which will cause his mother to smile.

I continue the story after the transcription.

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Transcription

Addressed to: Mrs Thomas Baird care of Mr John Moffat Tichfield Street Kilmarnock

Datelined: Rio de Janeiro 21st December 1828 [Cowes undated mark; Glasgow arrival postmark 8 April 1829]

My Dearest Mother

Without any of your esteemed favors to reply to I take the opportunity by the “John Lee” Capt Kelso to address you a few lines, and am happy to inform you that Uncle John [his step-uncle], Thomas [his younger brother] and self are all in the enjoyment of good health, Thomas likes his situation exceedingly and do assure you that his conduct since his arrival has been highly pleasing to everyone, he is very studious & attentive, and will make himself by & by a complete man of Business, all things cannot not be learned in a day, the Language of the Country is the most difficult thing which at first annoys a Foreigner. I have paid considerable attention to the rudiments by this means I find as little difficulty in conversing as in my “ain Mither tongue”, one amongst the few good traits in the Portuguese Character, is that even hearing a person speak ungrammatically they will never criticise were it otherwise I believe you would find more in this place speak better. I have found them in my rambles in the Interior very hospitable good people, but there still is a something in their manners of rather a superficial nature, nevertheless they may mean well for all that, in fact I have got so much accustomed to the Brazils that I would were I to leave feel a regret, altho’ I hope that it will never be my lot to lay down my Hulk here, but when a person of my Age after a stay of a few years in one place, he forms his acquaintances etc and even notwithstanding the many inconveniences he may feel during his residence a return home from it he will instantly feel; however do not judge from this strain of writing that I should wish to make this place my future residence, No! “there is no place like home” and only give me wherewithal to make myself comfortable with those around me and then I would break through all the ties of acquaintance, and spend the rest of my days in peace in my native Country. With these ideas of my future enjoyments my cares are soothed and only look forward to that thrice happy day, when I shall be able to fulfil them.

The few entertainments one meets with here is to me a matter of regret, and which would form a fund of amusement to my Correspondents at home; a Library has been established by subscription for nearly two Years, which seems for the present the general resort of our evening, and I am really happy to see it so well attended and supported, being an institution so much wanted amongst us and do know of no way in which we can better employ our leisure time, than in instructing ourselves in the knowledge of the History of our native Country, and of ancient as well as of modern times, the society of this place being of such a nature that a thing of this kind is doubly to be esteemed. The Emperor has a public library in Town to which only few have admittance, but there the Books of which it is composed are none of the most sought after. I hope in a short time to see this place advance in the Bellesartes and Sciences, oh dear me!! I should rather say civilisation for this commodity must be the first actor in the Scene, however they have much advanced since the declaration of their Independence, liberal principles begin to show influence among the people, however these are more than counterbalanced by the blinded Creatures of Despotism, education has opened the eyes of the people at home and when once it becomes general here, the minds of the good folks  will of course become more enlightened, the education more particularly of the fair Sex is very superficial, they are taught to study (not unlike some of your high flown Dames of Scotland) more the external graces of the person than the improvement of the mind, however there are always exceptions to the general rule, some few Foreigners that have married here, seem to be very comfortable, in fact enjoy themselves more than those that have their wives here (I mean Englishmen) an Englishwoman in a foreign Country is a tender exotic, always homesick, making their lives uncomfortable, however poor creatures they have reason to complain, want of comforts and society so incompatible to the mind of an Englishman, whereas a Brazilian Lady her heart & Soul is in the Brazils, and her wish seems to be, to make all around her cheerful.

Capt Kelso will most probably visit Kilmarnock after a short time, and from him you will be able to learn more particulars regarding myself and the local news of the place; he is a very pleasant quiet man, Thomas and self have spent several very pleasant nights with him on boards of the “John Lee”. I trust you will write me soon were it only to say you are well.

How is our new Business prospering? I am rather [letter torn here, perhaps astonished] at the silence of the Cummings family I think they might find time to write a few lines, I am very punctual in writing to my correspondents, on the Contrary I rather think some of them will not be well pleased at the Sacrifice of postage money I have occasioned them [since postage was normally paid by the recipient]. I should be most happy to hear from Miss Janet Moffat [his stepmother’s younger sister, aged about seventeen], please tell her so.

I do not know how you will like this dry dish of scraps, I assure you when I sat down to my Desk I never imagined I would have got so far on, one subject drove hard after another, and we often find that there is no way in which one’s mind can be better known than by the good quill.

Uncle John & Thomas join me in writing you and all friends & acquaintances the Compliments of the approaching Season and remain Dearest Mother Your affectionate Son    Hugh Baird

I am afraid you won’t be able to read.... If I had not taken up so much paper, Thomas would have addressed you a few lines, but as it is, he will do so by some further opportunity. The weather is now very hot, however there is seldom any sickness.

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Hugh Baird did NOT return home; he stayed in Brazil, married a Brazilian Maria do Carmo Cardozo in 1837, had at least four children, died there in 1860 aged fifty-three, and was buried in Rio de Janeiro's Cemiterio dos Ingleses. It is possible that he paid visits to his ain Mither country but I have no evidence one way or the other. Local research conducted for me by Vitoria Godoy de Andrade showed that Hugh Baird became prominent as a merchant, banker (alternate director of the Banco do Brasil), representative of the British community, and active in charitable organisations including the English Benevolent Society.

1828 Hugh Baird

Freyre, Gilberto The English in Brazil (2011; Portuguese original 1947)

Padraic X. Scanlan, “A Bad Business” [ review of books about Brazilian slavery], Times Literary Supplement, April 4 2025.

Research in Rio de Janeiro conducted by Vitoria Godoy de Andrade.


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